Turquoise: The Gemstone of Tibet
by Martin Walker-Watson
Accredited Gemmologist (A.I.G.S.), Graduate
Jeweler (G.I.A.)
Turquoise is widely appreciated by Tibetans and all through Tibetan history
has been prized, valued and worn as jewellery, not only for preserving the
family wealth but also for its application in ritual and medicinal practice.
"Gyu" (pronounced "yu") the name for turquoise seems to be
indigenous, indicating that knowledge of the mineral came from within and not
through outside influences. To call a turquoise a stone will offend a Tibetan
who will exclaim, "this is a turquoise and not a stone," looking upon
it as a thing distinct in itself.
There are four sources of Turquoise in Tibet; the most important is in the
region between Lhasa and the China-Tibetan border particularly in the vicinity
of Lhasa and near Chamdo, a small town of eastern Tibet about 400 miles
north-east of Lhasa. The finest material comes from an area in the Gangschan
Mountains of Ngari-Khorsum in Western Tibet. There is another location at Draya
to the west of Bathang, and the fourth area is in the mountains of the state of Derge in Eastern Tibet.
Turquoise rough occurs in a dense form filling up fissures as grape-like
masses or nodules (botryoidally) and the thickness of the veins measure up to 20
millimeters. Historically there hasn’t been much mining in Tibet, as the
turquoise was all picked up by hand from the surface so as not to scar and
deface the earth, but this practice may well have changed in recent years.
Tibetan turquoise rarely comes in a pure blue colour as most pieces contain
matrix, veins which may be brown (limonite), dark-grey (sandstone), or black
(jasper); the spider-web matrix of the Tibetan material has a design unequaled
by turquoise from any other part of the world. The rough is hand-cut and
polished en cabochon and graded as follows:
Deep blue (robin’s-egg blue) lustrous gemstones without flaws take foremost
rank; the lighter the blue and the more it approaches green the more it sinks in
estimation; gems with black veins and streaks (matrix) are looked upon as
common, as are those with a greenish hue.
Turquoise is an aluminium phosphate coloured by copper (blue) and iron
(green), and until very recently was considered amorphous (not having any
internal arrangement of atoms). With the help of X-rays it has been found that
it is in fact crystalline and belongs to the Triclinic System with most crystals
forming an aggregate of material. Turquoise does not cleave, but does fracture,
breaking unevenly and conchoidally displaying a waxy or vitreous lustre. The
resistance it offers to scratching, the Hardness, is measured on a relative
scale (Moh’s Scale). Turquoise measures between five and six depending on the
variable porosity of each gem, this can be compared with gem quality Coral which
measures between three and four - turquoise is therefore a mineral of greater
Hardness and will not scratch so easily as Coral. The tenacity of the gem was
utilised most effectively by the Tibetan hero Gesar who fashioned his arrowheads
from the finest turquoise.
Gemstones have always been associated with curious superstitions and
turquoise is no exception. Many people have recognised that the change of colour
in a turquoise gem is the direct result of variations in the state of the owner’s
health (being in sympathy with the affections and the characteristic physical
influences of the wearer). The gem grows paler and usually more green as the
owner sickens or grows old, losing its colour and intensity entirely at death,
but completely recovering its inherent qualities and beauty when given to a new
and healthy possessor. Traditional lore avers that as turquoise is susceptible to
the personality of the wearer, a gem must be treated with affection and regarded
as a sentient being if its colour and lustre are to be maintained and improved.
Similarly, its beauty is immediately lost if bought and not bestowed as a gift,
carrying happiness and good fortune if given by a loving hand, and sympathetic
not only to the wearer’s health but also to the giver, paling in colour if he
or she is threatened by evil.
Goldsmiths have to be careful while setting turquoise as the blue colour
changes at 250° C / 482° F into a dull green. A negative change in colour can also be brought about by
the influence of light, perspiration, oils and cosmetics as well as the loss of
the natural water content (turquoise is quite porous). The external colour
appearance varies greatly from a sky-blue to a blue-green to an apple green. Yet
turquoise is an idiochromatic mineral (one in which the colour is caused by
essential elements in the chemical composition, in this case copper and/or
iron), the inherent colour is usually whitish with black or brown spots.
Streaking a piece of turquoise across a rough porcelain plate will display this
inherent colour. With the finest inherent colour in mind, perhaps it might help
explain a couplet from a Tibetan love-song;
"I’d guard her fragrant body,
Like white turquoise so rare."
Turquoise is sometimes used as a love-token, presented by a lover to his
betrothed, its colour remaining permanent as long as the lover’s affection
lasts.
In Padmasambhava’s biography it mentions that he availed himself of
turquoise as well as other precious gemstones and metals for their uses in
dyeing and staining. Turquoise though, is officially registered as a medicament
in several standard medical works derived or modeled after Sanskrit texts.
Practitioners of the healing art of gem therapy generally accept that there are
three methods of applying a gemstone for medicinal purposes. Firstly, by
allowing the patient to observe a gem; secondly, by allowing a patient to touch
and feel it; and thirdly, by prescribing it as a powder usually mixed in with
other preparations, such as herbs and animal products. In the first and second
instances, a gemstone is used mainly as a tool and aid to the healer’s power
of suggestion. For its use as a medicinal preparation, turquoise must be crushed
as finely as possible. The resulting mixtures are frequently prescribed for
liver complaints, anaemia and hysteria (copper, one of the main ingredients of
turquoise is found chiefly in the liver as well as in the blood and nerve
cells). The effects of colour in a gemstone are also worth noting as each
individual has a particular colour spectrum that he or she is working with for
the major portion of an embodiment. Usually having only a few specific colours
around us in our daily routines, a need frequently arises for some people for a
colour from the opposite end of the spectrum to maintain both physical and inner
balance. The dark-red colour worn by the sangha is effectively balanced by the
blue and blue-green of turquoise. Jewellery with fine blue gems are worn for
healing purposes by people with tired and bloodshot eyes.
It is not surprising that a gemstone so highly prized as the turquoise should
have been one of the first gems to be imitated, simulated and eventually
synthesized. Over the years the decreasing availability and increasing cost of
high grade turquoise has challenged the ingenuity of the turquoise suppliers to
devise methods for:
- colour improving low quality gems,
- impregnating and stabilising porous turquoise to improve its strength and
colour,
- simulating turquoise with similarly coloured natural minerals,
- reconstructing turquoise from other minerals, and
- synthesizing turquoise.
Although natural turquoise can be identified by its specific gravity of
around 2.76, a refractive index spot reading of approximately 1.61 and a visible
absorption spectrum of 2 bands around 4300 and 4600 Angstrom units, natural
turquoise may only be separated from synthetic turquoise by microscopic
examination. The synthetic possesses an identical chemical composition,
identical X-ray structural characteristics, identical sub-microscopic structure
and identical colour characteristics of the natural turquoise. The synthetic
turquoise displays a unique surface patterning of masses of angular blueish
particles each surrounded by a thin whitish margin (termed "the cream of
wheat"). There is even on the market today a synthetic turquoise resembling
exactly the natural Tibetan turquoise, but fortunately, the spider-web matrix
(so characteristic of the Tibetan material) is usually too good to be true. The
turquoise imitations are: faience (a type of earthenware), glass, enamel,
porcelain, plastic, stained or dyed chalcedony, stained bone and tooth, as well
as stained howlite. The turquoise simulants are prosopite, variscite,
chrysocolla, wardite, ceruleite, eilat stone, faustite, papgoite, lazulite,
shattukite, and odontolite. Luckily, it is actually quite difficult to confuse a
turquoise with a mineral or stone that isn’t a turquoise, especially the finer
gem qualities.
Both Tibetan men and women wear turquoise jewellery as earrings, finger
rings, belt-buckles, head dresses, pendants and so on, frequently set in gold or
silver with coral and other precious gemstones. A single piece of turquoise is
sometimes worn as an earring, attached only by a length of string. Sarat Chardra
Das described the headdress of the wealthy women at a festival in Tashilhunpo:
"their headdresses struck me much. The prevailing form consisted of two or
sometimes three circular bands of plaited hair placed across the head and richly
studded with pearls. Coral and turquoise beads as large as hen’s eggs, and
various sorts of amber and jade encircled their heads like a halo of light round
the heads of goddesses. These circles were attached to a circular headband from
which six or eight stings of pearls and regularly shaped pieces of turquoise and
other precious gems hung down over the forehead". Most Tibetans carry boxes
of wood, copper, silver, or leather pouches suspended from their necks or
attached to some other part of the body, most of these objects being embellished
with turquoise. As famous swords, daggers, saddles, and coats of mail receive
individual Tibetan names, so also celebrated turquoise gemstones are given
special names. Water-vases, musical instruments, bells, prayer-wheels and other
artifacts are commonly set with turquoise, in fact, the gem is used so
extensively for decoration that it ranks as one of the most appreciated gems in
the world.
During puja, turquoise is employed, strung as rosaries (108 being the usual
number). It is also offered on the altar and adorns the brass or copper images
(which is not intended as a mere ornamental addition, but to signify the actual
jewellery with which the deities are adorned, and which forms part of their
essential attributes). A turquoise rosary is occasionally used in the worship of
the popular goddess Dolma or Tara, who are conceived to be of a blueish-green
complexion, and the gem, usually in connection with gold belongs to the most
ancient propitiatory offering to the gods and demons. In the final enumeration,
gold always precedes turquoise as the more valuable gift, but turquoise does
figure among the presents bestowed on Lamas.
In Tibetan literature, the word for turquoise is a favourite for describing
natural objects of sky-blue colour such as beautiful lakes, wells and flowers,
even the manes of horses, bees and tadpoles! The hair of goddesses and the
eyebrows of children born in a supernatural manner are spoken of as
turquoise-blue, and Tibetans speak poetically of the sky as "the turquoise
of heaven", the 13 Turquoise Heavens referring to traditional mythology.
King Du-srong Mang-po who reigned during the 8th century CE
supposedly found the largest turquoise then known in the world on the top of
Mount Tag-tse, a few miles north of Lhasa. A family living in the city at that
time had their roof showered with turquoise and other precious gems by a
generous deity. Apparently this mansion still stands, somewhere near the
"Turquoise-roof Bridge" in Lhasa. One famous story is the one about
King Srong-tsan Sgam-po winning the hand of his beautiful princess. He was
required to pass a silk thread through a coil of turquoise beads arranged in a
concentric circle. He solved the problem by tying the thread onto a queen ant,
which he blew through the holes in the beads. To the amazement of the
lookers-on, the ant came out at the other end of the coil dragging the thread
along, and thus gained the princess’s hand in marriage.
A source of inspiration to all Tibetans, there are no two turquoise gems
alike, and when observed sub-atomically it is found that it can no longer be
regarded as an inert mass of matter. Each gem is a vibrating essence of atoms, a
phenomenon distinct in itself!
This article was first published in The
Tibetan Review, June 1983.

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